Japan’s Hyper-Realistic Fake Food Art Takes Center Stage in London Exhibition

 

Japan’s Hyper-Realistic Fake Food Art Takes Center Stage in London Exhibition

A twirl of spaghetti suspended mid-air, a katsudon steaming fresh from the pan, and sashimi piled high on colorful plates — it looks good enough to eat, but none of it is real. These mouthwatering displays are shokuhin sampuru, Japan’s famously lifelike food replicas designed to tempt restaurant-goers. Now, they’re the star of a new exhibition in London.

Titled “Looks Delicious!”, the show at Japan House London is the first of its kind, spotlighting the artistry and history of these uncanny culinary fakes. Curated by Simon Wright, the exhibition features works by the Iwasaki Group — the pioneer and largest manufacturer of food replicas in Japan. The company produces one replica roughly every 40 minutes to meet demand.

The story of these edible illusions dates back to Takizo Iwasaki, who was inspired by watching candle wax form a flower-like shape in a puddle. His first model — an omelette made in honor of his wife — is on display at the exhibition under the name kinen omu or “celebration omelette.” Over time, wax and agar jelly gave way to PVC as the medium of choice for greater realism.

Though commonplace in Japan today, the origin of food replicas is a bit of a mystery. One theory suggests they helped introduce unfamiliar Western foods to a curious but hesitant Japanese public. “They’re about catching your eye and sparking your imagination,” said Wright. “It’s visual storytelling that tempts you inside.”

The centerpiece of the exhibit is a map of Japan constructed entirely from food replicas — one dish representing each of the country’s 47 prefectures. The Iwasaki Group created several replicas for the first time, including ohaw, a traditional Ainu soup from Hokkaido made with local game, fish, and wild foraged plants. The soup was prepared by the Ainu community, shipped overnight to Osaka, and turned into a replica within a day.

Replicating liquids — such as broths or wine — is one of the hardest tricks in the trade. Done right, they look ready to slosh over the edge of their bowls if nudged.

More than eye-catching displays, these models also carry cultural significance and practical value. Historically, their use grew in the aftermath of the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, when Tokyo’s Shirokiya department store used window displays to help overwhelmed customers choose meals before reaching the cafeteria.

“They’re essentially a promise,” said Nathan Hopson, a professor of Japanese history. “Wherever you are in Japan, you know exactly what you're getting.”

Though originally intended to streamline restaurant operations, food replicas have expanded into other areas, from agricultural quality control to public health education — including displays showing ideal diets for people with diabetes.

And for visitors to the London exhibition, there’s even a chance to arrange your own bento box using the plastic replicas. Proof that sometimes, playing with your food is the point.